Climbing Iron in Colorado's High Mountains
I recently returned from a trip to Colorado’s Rocky Mountains. There was so much to do and I absolutely loved being in such a wild place. The fact that you might bump into a bear or a mountain lion when out hiking was a new experience for me. If I’m being honest, I was a little paranoid! I’m used to hiking in the Alps or the UK where you don’t really have dangerous animals to think about. I couldn’t help but overanalyse every sound I heard in fear of some creature pouncing on me. No one else on the trails seemed bothered though so I just tried to “go with the flow” and push the thought of being eaten to the back of my mind.
The Rockies are truly stunning and whilst there I was lucky enough to get the chance to climb a beautiful via ferrata in the mountains above a small town called Telluride. Via ferratas are essentially iron ladders and steps pinned to the rock that allow access to very exposed territory in the high mountains. Having climbed lots of via ferratas in the past, I was really keen to try one in America. The Telluride via ferrata is fairly long and makes its way across a massive cliff face surrounded by alpine mountains. Not a bad setting! The route is high up at well over 3000 meters in altitude and you can certainly feel this when hiking to the start of the route. Every breath is harder than normal and a feeling of dizziness and nausea is ever-present.
I climbed the via ferrata with my friend Matt. Having done lots of climbs in the past together, this seemed like it would be a great way to squeeze in a quick challenge before a breakfast burrito back in town. When we got to the start of the route we were both surprised at the quality of the trail. Lots of it was extremely exposed and in a precarious position. The scree and rocky path followed the cliff edge before we eventually got to the protected via ferrata. This certainly felt like the most dangerous aspect of the adventure. As you’re not clipped into anything, one slip here would be fatal. We were extremely careful. Obviously!
When we finally reached the start of the via ferrata, we discovered an iron bench (incredible views) and a plaque honouring the creator of the route, Chuck Kroger. Chuck was a local explorer and adventurer who came across via ferratas when travelling in the Alps. He loved them so much that he decided to create one in the town he eventually settled in, Telluride. Chuck spent his days bolting the route and created the via ferrata for others to enjoy the high mountains. He lost his life to cancer in 2007 and this route is his legacy. The poem on the plaque was a lovely tribute to Chuck and focused on the fact that being in this setting brings you fully to the present moment. On the iron way, there is no time for thoughts. All you can do is focus on the moment, and the incredible death drop below you will ensure that happens!
After enjoying the view from Chuck’s bench, we prepared ourselves for the “main event”. This was a section of intense exposure. There’s a 200 meter drop below you and the cliff is slightly overhanging so you feel like you’re floating in space. There are small rungs for your feet and iron grips for your hands. As you step onto the rungs, it’s amazing how extreme the exposure feels. When there is air all around you, it feels serious and engaging. The poem about being forced into the present was right. There was no time to be thinking about anything else.
Matt on the “main event”
After the “main event” we had several more sections of exposed and delicate climbing. It was all very well protected with the iron rungs and cables but it did feel remote. There was nobody else on the route and we were aware of the stillness and silence around us.
As we continued to snake our way along the cliff face, we encountered a mix of broken trails and exposed via ferrata. There was no time to relax throughout the route though and we had to concentrate so that we didn't trip or slip. At one point a load of rock started to fall in a gully we were about to climb into. That was pretty scary. We waited for a bit and then quickly dashed through, unscathed.
The worst part of the whole route was right at the end. We had just finished the via ferrata and were walking along the cliff top path when we hit a section that was covered in ice. There was no option but to walk on the icy path. However, the angle of the path was aggressive and there was a horrible drop on the other side. There was no protection in place and this really did require care. Moving slowly was the key. We precariously made our way along the path and I don’t think I've ever been so focused in my life! When we finally got past that section, we were both relieved. It was then a short trail run downhill through the woods and back to the car.
The whole adventure took a little over two hours to complete. It was a great way to start the day and a great way to be forced into the present moment. This is one of the things I love about climbing and doing things that require care and attention. Having a consequence to not focusing really makes you concentrate. This presence of mind is an interesting thing to experience. Everything around you melts away and you are left with just the moment. Pure experience. This is mindfulness in action. The nature of the task at hand brings you to the present moment and destroys distractions. This is definitely weighted by the task being somewhat extreme in nature. It’s actually a lovely place to be. As the world gets busier and we get bombarded with information overload, remaining present seems to be harder than ever. When I meditate, I’m constantly battling with my own mind distracting me. If I'm climbing or hanging onto iron rungs above a 200 meter drop, I’m very focused.
Lots of activities can bring us into the present moment. If we can use them to focus our minds and live a more present existence, our fruit salads will taste sweeter, our sunsets will be brighter and our interactions with others will be more engaged and meaningful. I believe these types of activities are important for all of us. I’d love to know what brings you into the present moment. Let me know in the comments below.
Matt on another section of exposed via ferrata
The quote below is part of the poem written for Chuck. It sits above his bench on this via ferrata.
“You shared generously with us the art of engaged living. Taught us the rewards of discovery, design and grit.
We humbly pay you back now by grabbing these irons, and by hiking your clean miners’ trails - Joyfully and with wonder!”